Nesting Series: Baby Bibs {Pattern Included}

There is nothing cuter than a baby.... except maybe a messy one!

Okay... so not all messy babies are cute... but I certainly think MINE is! Back when my son (who is now 4.5 years old) was just an infant I realized that the store bought terry cloth bibs just weren't cutting it any more. They were great when he was little and couldn't put up much of a fuss. BUT, once he was old enough to realize that he could take the bib off by pulling on it {because it was velcro} I could keep one on him. That's when I developed the bib pattern that I have been using for the last 2-3 years. It really hasn't changed much at all. I use metal snaps on my bibs so that older kids -- who still need a bib -- can't pull it off.

I used to make a bunch of them and sell that at wholesale prices to a couple of distributors, but with my new little one I just don't have the time I once did to sit and sew as much as I would like... which makes me sad, but I LOVE spending time with my kids!

So, now that I only make them for craft shows, boutiques, for my own kids, and occasionally for my Etsy shop, I figured I would share my pattern with you guys! The only thing I ask is that you respect my time and willingness to share this with you and only use it for personal projects. If you are interested in using my pattern in your Etsy shop or to sell your products just shoot me an email {} for permission. Thanks!!!

Be sure to wash and dry your fabric before you start cutting or sewing. If you forget it won't be the end of the world, it just might shrink a little.

MATERIALS: So, what materials should you use for your bib. Personally I like to use a cotton print and a cotton chenille. However, chenille can be hard to come by and can be a little pricey... so any terry cloth or flannel would work just fine. I know some people use fleece or minky for their bibs also. In my opinion the minky and fleece are kind of tough for bibs because they don't absorb well. If you choose to use one of those for the back of you bib I suggest using a flannel or terry cloth layer (adding an extra third layer to your bib) on the inside so that there is a little extra fabric to collect those messes that we all know kids can make.

As far as the snaps verses velcro debate ... you have already read why I use snaps. That doesn't mean you can't use velcro because you absolutely can! If you have a little one who has no desire to take their bib off then by all means stick with the velcro (no pun intended, lol) because it is easier to work with.

You will need:
• 1/2 yard of your front and back materials (enough for 4 bibs)
• metal snaps or velcro
• a sewing machine, thread, scissors or pinking shears, and an iron
• a pen or chalk marker
• the bib pattern (found at the bottom of the post)

Print out the pattern. It comes as a PDF file with two pages. Simply cut out the pattern and tape the two piece together. The pattern comes in two sizes as well, a long toddler size and a smaller infant size.

Cut out a rectangle piece from your two fabrics that is 17"x10". Then on one of your fabrics, trace your pattern on the WRONG side -- the one without the print on it {aka not the pretty side}. You will want to find the approximate center of your fabric. You can do this really easy by folding it in half along the width (hot dog style) and pressing it with your finger. Line up the center of the bib -- where it says "place on fold" -- with the crease in your fabric. Then using either a chalk marker or a regular pen trace around the outside of your pattern. Flip your pattern over, line up the the center again and trace around the outside of your pattern.

This is where my bib pattern differs from a lot of others. Instead of painstakingly cutting out the top piece for my bib and then tracing and cutting out the bottom piece... and hoping that they line up okay, I opt for a much easier method... DO NOT CUT IT OUT! Yep, that's it. Just don't cut it out. Take this piece with your traced bib on it, place it on top of your bottom bib fabric {right sides together} and pin them together.

No need to retrace your pattern. Be sure when you pin to mark a starting a stopping place. You need to leave about a 2 inch opening when you sew to be able to turn the bib right side out. I always leave the opening on a straight edge where possible because it makes it a lot easier to close it up after turning the fabric.

Take your fabric over to your sewing machine. If you have a 1/4" sewing foot great! If not, you will want to have a 1/4" inseam. With a 1/4" foot simply line up the edge of your foot with the traced line and follow it all the way around being sure to include the hole for the neck. By sewing on either side of the line you drew for the neck strap and hole you will create the two neck straps.

Now is the time to cut! Using pinking shears trim your sewn bib close to the traced line you drew. If you don't have pinking shears {the scissors that cut the zigzag lines} you can use regular scissors. Just be sure to clip the fabric around the curved edges so that it will lay flat after flipping it right side out.

After trimming off the fabric turn your bib right side out. You may need to use something to help get the corners of the neck straps completely turned. My go to tool is actually a crochet hook. It is small and it's not sharp so for me it is the perfect turning tool. Once your bib is all turned take it to your iron and press it out nice and flat. Good ironing is the key to a crisp look. Fold the fabric from the opening under so that it is inside the bib. Line up your two fabrics and pin them in place. This is also a good time to attach one of your tags.

All that is left is to top stitch your bib. I use an 1/8" seam allowance and sew around the entire edge of the bib. It closes the hole that you had from turning your bib right side out and keeps my tag in place. I then sometimes go back and sew another top stitch that is about 1/2" from the fabric edge. It is decorative and helps to reinforce the edges of the bib. After sewing take your bib back to your iron to set your stitching.

You can now add either metal or plastic snaps, or velcro to your straps and it is ready for use!

{I used the longer toddler sized bib for hers}

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*** The actual pattern piece that I use to create my bibs is in between the toddler and infant size. I traced mine onto a file folder, lining up the "place fold here" edge with the folded edge on the folder. Then I cut out the bib shape including the neck hole. Now I can trace the entire bib pattern onto my fabric without lining it up in the center and flipping it over to trace the other half.


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  2. Wonderful tutorial! Thank you!! :) She is beautiful :)


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